Islay Ahoy!; Elijah Craig on Taste; Tiree Update; Kilchoman Rum; Johnnie Walker Legacy; Disappointment for Wolfcraig

Hello everyone

This is the day before I set off for Islay to do my bit at Feis Ile. I‘ll report on that mid-June and show the full menu with whisky matches. The decisions were definitely tougher this year – or maybe I‘m becoming more indecisive! Also, one of the whiskies I wanted is showing on a distillery website as available but it turns out it‘s not the distillery shop but the main web platform to order bottles. Confusing… Anyway, turns out the distillery doesn‘t have any but the manager has very kindly suggested a nearest alternative for which I am grateful to him. It‘s about the only sample from that distillery that I don‘t have here in my whisky cupboard so I‘ve relied on their official tasting notes and, from my expereince generally, it should match that part of the menu. Similarly, another I wanted isn‘t available at its distillery so I‘ve gone for Plan B which I know should pick up on some of the flavours in that dish just as well. I‘m really looking forward to hosting and speaking again this year as well as meeting new faces and, I hope, some I already know from previous dinners.

Just a little update on the Tiree whisky. I was sent a sample of the spirit which was racked into a sherry cask a little while back and it‘s adding delightful extra notes to the liquid on the nose – added frit richness with soft oak and earth and the beginnings of spicier notes including gingerSome slight toffee and barley sugar. On palate more fruit and some drier notes too; herbs and licorice. It’s not been in sherry long enough yet for major differences but there are some. Very much looking forward to their first release next year.

A sample from Elijah Craig bourbon arrived a bit late to be included last time so here we are. It‘s Elijah Craig Small Batch Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, bottled at 47% abv (94 proof). I love nosing bourbons with the lovely corn and vanilla sweet notes they have. This one uses malted barley, rye and corn. They are promoting it as a Father‘s Day gift but, as I‘ve never featured it before, I‘m pleased to include it here. It‘s created from a blend of 200 or less  8 – 12 year old barrels, aged in open air rickhouses. They say, „It is this extra aging and expertise in barrel selection that give Elijah Craig its robust body and rich flavour and owes its distinctive warm spice & subtle smoke flavour to Level 3 charred oak barrels.“  My own notes are:

Appearance: Rich, deep gold/light amber. Orange/pink highlights.

Nose: Vanilla, vanilla! Orange oil. Oak, floral and sweet – baked apple and candy floss. Corn sweetness. With water, more candy floss and caramel. A hint of cask char, a bit of sweet spice and custard.

Palate: Medium mouth weight. Floral – rose water and lychee, a very „perfume“ flavour. A dab of mint/menthol, stewed fruit, a touch of pepperiness and quite mouth-drying.

Finish: Quite long and floral with oak and vanilla.

Definitely enjoyed this one. Great to sip on its own or for making southern-style cocktails. They say it‘s signature serve is an Old-Fashioned, though and their recipe is:

60ml Elijah Craig Small Batch Bourbon | 10ml Simple Syrup | 3 dashes of Bitters | Orange Peel | Brandied Cherry (optional)

In a mixing glass, add bitters, simple syrup, Elijah Craig Small Batch, and ice. Stir until well chilled. Strain cocktail over a large ice cube in a double old-fashioned glass. Garnish with a brandied cherry and a twist of orange.

That may be one I try in the warm weather we‘re currently getting (it‘s because it‘s Feis Ile week on Islay!). You‘ll find this bourbon at around £44.99 per bottle.

A release in from Kilchoman recently to tell us they are setting up a rum distillery on…Barbados. Not Islay, someone else is doing that. I think it‘s a fabulous idea that a little Scottish island distillery should pursue this and, I hope, cement further good relations between the two islands. They advise that Anthony Wills, owner and head distiller at Kilchoman, will be partnering with Frank Ward, a former managing director at Mount Gay, „who will be consulting on the project and advising on specific rum production methods“.What a great way to escape an Islay winter. That‘s all the detail at present but there‘s a promise of more to come.

 

Just after the last column was uploaded came a release from Johnnie Walker about Johnnie Walker Master‘s Cut (40% abv), a legacy blend from Dr. Jim Beveridge OBE, Diageo‘s great Master Blender who retired in December 2021. Doesn‘t feel like that long ago. Anyway, this is a blend from Roseisle and Cameronbridge distilleries, one fairly new, the other long-established. Why these two? Dr. Beveridge says,It’s an exercise in simplicity, doing more with less to create something which has a uniquely complex character. Ultimately, we take great whiskies and combine them in ways which create new, amazing new expressions of Blended Scotch.” Only 1,000 bottles of this will be available at the JW flagship visitor centre on Princes Street in Edinburgh later this year and in selected markets later on again. Bad news is that it costs £1,000 a 70cl bottle. Get ready to flex the credit card, those of you who can.

We learned recently that, although they submitted revised plans after consultations with the Stirling planning authorities, Wolfcraig‘s revised plans have been turned down too. I have no idea what the problem is with planning people when this would be such an asset to the area and looked pretty good too, from the drawings. Reasons given are the project is “of considerable scale and design” and its impact on the open landscape as well as a likely negative effect on historic landmarks and that the facilities therein, including a restaurant, might have a negative impact on Stirling’s centre. Other comments were made about spoiling the look of the town and detracting from the castle as well as on environmental matters to do with trees and wildlife. What a load of utter bunkum. Stirling is somewhat short of good eateries and other facilities so something that upped the game here would only do good, as well as bring more clientele to the accommodations and bars in the city, perhaps allowing them to upgrade too. The local flora and fauna do matter but I would doubt that environmental matters haven’t been taken fully into consideration by the company. The team at Wolfcraig which includes Richard Paterson and Ian MacMillan is now saying the company will appeal but look for a site elsewhere. I really feel for them after all their hard work.  The meeting was livestreamed late last week but I wasn‘t able to join in so hope to ask more questions. On a good news note, some of you will know Wolfcraig recently launched a 30 year old blend created jointly by Richard and Ian. Just today a sample has arrived of that, of a future launch and of their gin. I‘ll include the relevant bits next time once I‘ve nosed and tasted them.

Well, that‘s it from me for this month and I have to finish printing stuff and packing for Islay. I‘ll be back here again mid-June.

Till then, happy dramming.

Slainte mhath,

Caroline

Feis Ile; Cardrona & Kilchomans on Taste

Hello everyone

It‘s almost Feis Ile time again and those of you attending this year will doubtless have been busy a couple of months back booking your event tickets and, more recently, ordering your Feis bottlings from your chosen distilleries, if not all of them. There are certainly some interesting expressions on offer this year. I recently bought a bottle of the new Bunnahabhain Canasta Cask. Not opened it yet as I‘m debating whether to keep it or give it to my brother for Christmas and hope for a dram.

I‘m back over again to host my annual dinner at The Port Charlotte Hotel. The whisky decisions have been difficult this year and they get more so each time. That‘s because there are so many expressions from each distillery now and they do change from time to time. This year so far, I‘ve had to change one choice because it‘s no longer available (tell that to their website) and another is in short supply so I‘m waiting to hear. Chef Chris has come up with a lovely menu yet again but he does like to test me! I‘ll be able to report back on that dinner in June as my end of May column will be posted a couple of days before the dinner happens and before I set sail to get there. Although the hotel displays the menu in advance, I like to keep the whisky/food matches as a surprise for the actual event.

A couple of weeks ago I received a sample of Cardrona Full Flight Sherry Single Cask from Cardrona Distillery in New Zealand. Well, we like to look at worldwide whisk(e)y offerings here. It‘s bottled at 62.7% abv and has been matured for 7 years. The distillery‘s goal is to have a signature malt at 10 years old. They‘re off to a good start. The sherry butt for this was a Gonzalez Byass oloroso sherry cask and the whusky was then transferred to a Pedro Ximenez butt „for a decadent finish“. It certainly has an opulent nose.

Appearance: Glowing amber with orange and old gold highlights. Tears very slow to form.

Nose: Oak, raisins and brown sugar caramel. A rich dried fruit mix. Also dried peel and warm, sweet spices – ginger and mixed spice. Candy floss. With water, more oak and sugary sweetness. A touch of caramelised banana and milk chocolate. It‘s an enticing nose.

Palate: Slight viscosity. Oak and spice plus black pepper. A touch of marzipan and honey. Dark chocolate bitterness and a little citrus zest. Pleasant to drink but not overly complex. I‘d like to try this again when it‘s spent a bit longer in cask but wouldn‘t turn it down now. Plenty to look forward to.

Finish: Medium length; astringent, dry, spicy.

This sherry expression has a sister matured in bourbon wood, same age but at 66.9% abv. Both are really quite expensive at £125 for a 35cl bottle.

I also have a sample of the Tiree spirit (not yet whisky) which has been racked into sherry cask to sit for a while. Still to try that one so will do that for next time.

Two samples which did arrive this week are the latest from Kilchomanpart of the 2023 Limited Editionsand my thanks to Catherine MacMillan for getting them here quickly from Islay so I could decide if I wanted to use one for my Islay dinner menu. Still deciding where one might go after getting the time to nose and taste them.

Kilchoman Fino Sherry Matured comes in at 50% abv.

Appearance: Bright barley gold with pale brass highlights.

Nose: Soft smoke and tar with a slightly warm wool sock. Touch of almond and brine and a little bit of ripe apple and pear fruit plus a dab of something tropical and honeyed too – mango maybe. With water, the richly peated barley is stronger; slightly waxy with dash of citrus zest and icing sugar glaze.

Palate: A slightly oily mouth feel with some tar/char; salt and a little seaweed as well as juicy fruits. Peppery with citrus zest bitterness, almond and dark caramel. Quite astringent, softly peaty and mouth drying.

Finish: Fairly long and malty with smoke and salt plus some bitter citrus zest/pith notes and dark chocolate. Dry.

The peating level is 50ppm and 15,650 bottles are available for worldwide sale. It was put into cask in 2018.

Kilchoman Cognac Cask Matured is also at 50% abv with peating level at 50ppm too. There are 15,100 bottles available. This is the first cognac cask matured Kilchoman to be released. The casks came from Tonellerie Bossuet in France in 2016 and the spirit was held in them until bottling.

Appearance: A light gold colour with pale brass highlights, similar to a white burgundy or lemon juice. Tears quite fat and oily.

Nose: From the bottle, floral and vinous. In glass, some ripe mellow fruits but also grassy and some almond and oak. With water, even a touch of walnut. Soft smoke and wax plus some dialled back char.

Palate: Oily, melted butter mouth feel. More smoky than on the nose; astringent, tongue-tingling pepperiness. Marzipan, oak char and tannin, spice and licorice.

Finish: Quite long and smoky; dry and with a char aftertaste with citrus, dried herbs and slight green leaf notes.

I‘d have expected marzipan notes from a whisky which has spent its life, however short, in cognac cask and this was true to that.

I was originally keen to try the Cognac Cask version but ended up preferring the Fino Sherry matured expression though that was on one single tasting. I do intend to try them both again. I looked at their tasting notes after I‘d written mine and, curiously, I definitely got the apple and pear on the one labelled Fino Sherry rather than Cognac Cask but do agree that the peat „remains delicate on the nose“ in the Cognac Cask bottling. Not quite so delicate on the palate, though.

Just today a bottle of a new expression of Elijah Craig Bourbon arrived so that will be included at the end of this month.

Till next time, happy drammimg.

Slainte,

Caroline